When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson

27 October 2005

Samurai restaurant critic

Frank Bruni just had dinner at the new TriBeCa restaurant Ninja New York.

He, um, didn't like it very much.
Confusing the point of a restaurant with the mission of a "Saturday Night Live" skit, Ninja New York deposits you in a kooky, dreary subterranean labyrinth that seems better suited to coal mining than to supping...

...Ninja intends to evoke a Japanese mountain village inhabited by ninjas, a special breed of stealthy warriors. In this case they come armed not only with swords and sorcery but also with recipes, which may be their most dangerous weapons of all...

...In the name of "new style sushi" Ninja employs rice cakes as beds - or sometimes graves - for a rectangle of truffle-flecked omelet (it tasted like soggy French toast)...

...For a toddler with a trust fund and a yen for udon and maki, Ninja might be a valid alternative to the Jekyll and Hyde restaurant...
Yelping Warriors, and Rocks in the Broth - New York Times

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